Не успеют отзвенеть знойные летние деньки, как тысячи модниц ринутся в магазины одежды для покупки пальто. Какие модные тенденции следует брать на вооружение в 2015-16 году? Что будет в тренде: женственный силуэт «песочные часы» или мешковатый стиль «оверсайз», брутальные милитари или утонченная классика, универсальная длина миди или романтичные модели «в пол»?
Пальто шагает по модным подиумам не первый сезон и, казалось бы, что нового можно здесь еще придумать? Ан нет, дизайнеры вновь сломали стереотипы и удивили публику восхитительными новинками. Оригинальный декор, свежие принты, обилие материалов – и устаревшие вроде модели заиграли новыми красками, обрели новую жизнь. И хотя цветовую палитру модельеры предпочли сдержанную, пальто не выглядят серо и неброско. Смотрим, какие модели пальто будут лидировать в сезоне осень-зима 2015-2016.
Тренд № 1. Короткие модели
В коллекциях ведущих брендов преобладают соблазнительно короткие пальто, призванные подчеркивать красоту женских ног. По сравнению с длинными фасонами, модели мини выглядят эффектно и стильно, они удобны, практичны и сексуальны. Короткое пальто уместно для любой обстановки и возраста. Дизайнеры рекомендуют сочетать его с длинными ботфортами. Изделия с минимальной длиной представлены в работах Donna Karan, Hermes, Dolce & Gabbana, Oscar de la Renta.
Тренд № 2. Без рукавов
Интересную идею выдвинули Roberto Cavalli, Chalayan, Acne Studios и Christian Dior. В их моделях полностью отсутствуют рукава. Оригинальные пальто выглядят весьма претенциозно, но вызывают сомнения в своей практичности и комфорте. Поэтому решение, носить ли столь креативные «безрукавки», зависит целиком и полностью от вашего стремления к экстравагантности.
Тренд № 3. С бахромой и перьями
Бахрому можно с уверенностью назвать захватчиком осенне-зимнего сезона 2015-16. Она расположилась повсюду: на сумках, брюках и джинсах, платьях и юбках, свитерах и блузах. Декором вдохновились Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Lanvin. Они первыми применили бахрому в дизайне верхней одежды, создав летящие пальто с кокетливыми перышками, воздушными нитями, шнурками и другими невесомыми тканевыми нитями.
Тренд № 4. Пончо
Накидки в стиле хиппи пробрались и в фасоны пальто. Мексиканские пончо уже который год пользуются неизменным расположением тысяч модниц. Романтичные и экстравагантные, классические и винтажные, они присутствуют на любом модном показе. В грядущем осенне-зимнем сезоне будут лидировать необычные, порой шокирующие своей нетривиальностью модели. Чего только стоит пончо спортивного типа от модного дома Kenzo! Или накидка в стиле бохо, разукрашенная орнаментами и декорированная бахромой от бренда Burberry Prorsum. Креативное перевоплощение пончо затронуто в коллекциях Andrew Gn, Barbara Bui, Roberto Cavalli.
Тренд № 5. Граффити-принт
Клетка – must have дизайна любой коллекции. Ни один модельер не обходится без этого классического принта, воссоздавая его в своих работах в различном исполнении. Дизайнерские трансформации клетки в осенне-зимнем сезоне достигли своего апогея: она выполнена под граффити. И можно с уверенностью заявить, что перевоплощение было удачным: пальто с таким принтом выглядят свежо, живо и весьма провокационно.
Тренд № 6. Микс разных фактур
Модные дома Dolce & Gabbana, Carolina Herrera, Prada, Max Mara и Roberto Cavalli посчитали пальто, сделанное из одного материала скучным, и продемонстрировали свой креативный модельный ряд. Их модели – это интересный микс меха, кожи, драпа и трикотажа. Фактурные комбинации выполнены из двух, трех и даже четырех участников, схожих цветом.
Тренд № 7. В стиле «матрица»
Вдохновившись блокбастером «Матрица», где главные герои дефилировали в длинных кожаных пальто, дизайнеры создали новую тенденцию – черные модели из длинной струящейся кожи. Украшенное клепками, молниями и металлическим ремнем, такое пальто формирует немного брутальный, но в то же время не лишенный женственности образ.
Тренд № 8. С мехом
Мех присутствует почти во всех работах именитых кутюрье. Пальто не стало исключением. Материалом украсили рукава, воротники и низ изделий. В числе «поставщиков» меха – лиса, норка, бобер, каракуль и даже як.
Тренд № 9. Мужской стиль
Мужской крой пальто пользуется широкой популярностью у брутальных, уверенных в себе женщин. Такой фасон характеризуется минимализмом и лаконичностью, сдержанной цветовой палитрой. Силуэт, как правило, свободный, оттенок – однотонный, декор ограничивается лишь пуговицами и карманами – никаких принтов и броских акцентов! К а-ля-мужскому пальто дизайнеры рекомендуют подбирать вещи «по характеру» – аскетичные свитера, брюки в классическом стиле, туфли и сапоги на квадратных каблуках или низкой подошве, сумки-саквояжи. Модели с мужской натурой доминируют в коллекциях Alexander Wang, Hermes, Christopher Kane.
Тренд № 10. Удлиненные модели
Романтичные, удлиненные пальто «в пол» пользуются особым расположением модельеров. Они не устают воссоздавать их в разнообразных амплуа. Грядущий осенне-зимний сезон 2015-16 ознаменуется появлением моделей, длина которых достигает пола и даже чуть стелется по нему, образуя небольшой шлейф. Однозначно, надеть такую модель в дождь или снег решится не каждая, но она будет уместна на официальном или торжественном мероприятии.
Тренд № 11. И снова клетка
Клетка занимает особенно почетное место среди всех существующих принтов. Она уже давно вошла в разряд классики и встречается на любом модном показе. Пальто в клетку этой осенью и зимой будут лидировать однозначно. Бренды Chanel, Acne Studios, Roland Mouret, Miu Miu представили изумленной публике разнообразные модели в клетку. Геометрическая и абстрактная, разноцветная и черно-белая, мелкая и крупная, линейная и объемная – от такого разнообразия разбегаются глаза!
Следует отметить, что дизайнеры сняли табу и стали активно сочетать клетку с другими принтами. Теперь на одном пальто располагаются клетчатые, звериные, геометрические и этнические узоры.
Тренд № 12. Стиль «оверсайз»
Мешковатый стиль «оверсайз» может похвастать не одним миллионом поклонниц. Его любят как школьницы, так и учителя, как домохозяйки, так и бизнес-леди. Модные показы, посвященные грядущему холодному сезону, буквально пестрили моделями «оверсайз». Пальто, выполненное в этом стиле, выглядит объемно и немного мешковато, полностью скрывая все прелести женской фигурки, но не лишая ее хрупкости. Фасон характеризуется объемным воротником, широкими рукавами, бездонными карманами, прямым силуэтом и довольно аскетичным дизайном. Пальто «оверсайз» преобладают в линиях одежды от Chanel, Badgley Mischka, Vivienne Westwood, Nina Ricci, Balenciaga.
Тренд № 13. Не отличаясь от одежды
Бренды Akris, Nina Ricci, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Isabel Marant, Fendi, Undercover подарили миру пальто, идентичные дизайну другой одежды. Их изделия неотличимы расцветкой и декором от платьев, юбок, свитеров и брюк.
Тренд № 14. Звериные пальто
Пальто «под зверье» уже который год занимают верхние строчки ТОПа трендов. Такие модели сделаны под кожу рептилий, под шкуру тигра, леопарда или пантеры. Смотрятся они весьма эпатажно и даже где-то агрессивно. Дамам менее смелым дизайнеры предлагают изделия, где хищная расцветка прошлась лишь по отдельным деталям: воротнику, рукавам, манжетам.
Хищный призыв исходит от брендов Roberto Cavalli, Vivienne Westwood, Louis Vuitton, Saint Laurent, Fausto Puglisi, Red Valentino, Miu Miu, Red Label.
Тренд № 15. В виде пижамы
Казалось бы, чем еще способны удивить нас неумные кутюрье, но они вновь переиграли скептиков, представив линию модных пальто, выполненных под… пижаму. Пижама теперь не часть спального ансамбля, в ней можно свободно расхаживать по улицам города. Выглядят подобные модели весьма оригинально: свободный крой, броские принты, широкие пояса. Наденьте к пальто-пижаме яркие кеды, и смело дефилируйте, восхищая окружающих.
Тренд № 16. Милитари
Пальто в стиле милитари защитного цвета с объемным силуэтом, воротником-стойкой, эполетами и длиною до пят – обязательный тренд наступающего сезона. Их отличают строгость, лаконичность и минимализм. «Военные» модели придают своей обладательнице непоколебимую серьезность, некую аристократичность и даже женственность.
Цветовая гамма модных пальто
Несмотря на то, что подавляющее число модных домов представили пальто в сдержанных тонах: черных, серых, бежевых, кремовых, песочных, жемчужных, кучка дизайнеров порадовала смелых модниц яркими, летними красками. Неординарные модели можно увидеть в работах Donna Karan, Acne Studios, Christian Dior, DKNY, Fendi, Victoria Beckham, Oscar de la Renta, Fausto Puglisi, Roksanda. Сочная палитра из красных, зеленых, желтых, синих, рыжих, оранжевых и розовых цветов поражает воображение. Провокационно выглядят изделия от бренда Roksanda, который раскрасил их миксом из нескольких оттенков.
Среди классических оттенков настоящий фурор произвело белоснежное пальто от Blumarine. Элегантная однобортная модель с облегающим силуэтом вряд ли будет практичной, но зато преобразит свою обладательницу до неузнаваемости. Белоснежные пальто присутствуют также у Helmut Lang, Michael Kors, Calvin Klein.
Популярные принты
На модных показах, посвященных сезону осень-зима 2015-2016, лидировали такие принты, как:
- шотландская или виндзорская клетка;
- звериные узоры;
- полоска – линейная и объемная;
- цветочные и абстрактные мотивы;
- геометрические рисунки;
- оптические иллюзии;
- калейдоскоп;
- национальные орнаменты и этно;
- граффити.
Принты сосуществует как по отдельности, так и в миксе. В изделиях могут сочетаться контрастные полосы и цветовые блоки. Восхитительную игру цвета и принтов можно наблюдать в коллекциях Dries van Noten, Gucci, Diane von Furstenberg, Givenchy, Philip Lim, Aquilano Rimondi, Etro.
Декор
Обыгрывая декор своих изобретений, дизайнеры превзошли самих себя. Какого только дизайна не наблюдалось на модных показах! Необычные узоры, вышивка, украшения, броские металлические аксессуары, брошки. Некоторые модные дома представили изделия с готовыми аксессуарными принадлежностями: шарф, перчатки, палантины, выполненные из того же материала, что и пальто. Другие пошли еще дальше и сотворили готовые осенне-зимние ансамбли, которые включают шапку, обувь, брюки, юбку и платья из единой цветовой палитры и декора.
Ассортимент модных пальто огромен: женственные и грубоватые, короткие и длинные, броские и сдержанные, облегающие и широкие. Осталось отыскать в этом многообразии ту модель, которая будет демонстрировать миру ваш тонкий вкус.
Мода и тренды Модные пальто осень-зима 2015-16: 16 главных трендов
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