Когда дело доходит до посещения торжественных мероприятий, женщинам, как правило, предоставляется более богатый выбор в плане нарядов и аксессуаров. Мужчины же прибегают к одному и тому же набору из рубашки и костюма. Самым нервным и во всех смыслах запутанным при этом представляется подбор правильного галстука и умение его носить.
Частые ошибки
Обладание неправильным галстуком похоже на попытки засунуть квадрат в круг: он не подходит, раздражает, вызывает отчаяние и недоумение. Самая распространенная ошибка, которую совершают мужчины при покупке галстука – выбирают галстук, который не сочетается либо с имеющимся у них гардеробом, либо с их внешними данными, либо же и с тем, и с другим.
Универсальное правило выбора галстука
Для того, чтобы ношение галстука не превращалось в пытку, нужно следовать всего лишь одному простому правилу: подбирать галстук к одежде, а не одежду к галстуку. Не поддавайтесь глупому импульсу и не покупайте галстук лишь потому, что он красивый. Покупайте галстук, который пропорционален строению вашего тела, а его цвет и рисунок сочетаются с рубашками и костюмами, которые у вас уже есть.
Правильные пропорции
Под пропорциями галстука подразумеваются его длина и ширина в соотношении с размерами вашего тела и стилем одежды. Крупногабаритный мужчина в пиджаке большого размера наилучшим образом будет выглядеть с более широким, чем стандартный, галстуком, длина которого будет достигать пряжки ремня. Джентельменам помельче, наоборот, следует отдать предпочтение узким и более коротким изящным галстукам. Мужчинам стандартных размеров лучше воздержаться от крайностей и выбирать галстуки средней ширины: 8-9,5 см.
Правильный цвет
К сожалению, не существует одного цвета, который можно было бы назвать самым выигрышным для всех случаев. Есть два решающих фактора при выборе цвета: сообщение, которое вы хотите послать своим внешним видом и ваш цветотип – природные тона кожи, глаз и волос. Для создания спокойного изысканного образа освойте сочетание полупрозрачных слегка узорчатых галстуков сине-зеленых тонов и одежды в холодно-синей гамме.
Подбор галстука по цветотипу
Здесь нужно подражать своему природному уровню контрастности. Внешность мужчин с волосами светлых тонов и белой кожей слабоконтрастна, и их галстуки должны быть такими же. Поэтому стоит выбирать пастельные одноцветные комбинации. У темноволосых и светлокожих контрастность высокая, им можно носить яркие галстуки с четкими линиями. Мужчинам с темными волосами и тоном кожи от среднего до темного можно носить как слабоконтрастные, так и сильноконтрастные галстуки, в зависимости от цвета рубашки и пиджака.
Правильный узор
Касательно узора, новичкам в таинственном галстучном мире можно посоветовать придерживаться следующего правила: выбирая узорчатый галстук, убедитесь, что все остальные составляющие вашего туалета не имеют узора или рисунка. Если это не так, постарайтесь, чтобы узор галстука не повторял узор рубашки или костюма. Иными словами, – не повязывайте галстук в тонкую полоску, если на вас рубашка или пиджак из ткани с такой же полоской.
Сочетаемость с рубашкой
Это самый главный параметр подбора галстука. В отличие от пиджака, который можно снять, рубашка будет на вас весь день, и если она в открытом конфликте с галстуком, скрыть это невозможно. Самые широкие возможности предоставляют однотонные рубашки. С белыми сочетается что угодно; у светло-голубых есть совсем немного неподходящих цветов, но они редко используются в галстуках; кремовые и постельные тона также приемлют любые цветовые сочетания, но следует обратить внимание на четкий контраст между рубашкой и тканью галстука.
Сочетаемость с костюмом
Костюм из темно-синей или серой ткани прекрасно сочетается практически с любыми галстуками. Темный галстук с вкраплениями синего, однако, не будет хорошо смотреться с черным или темно-серым пиджаком. Оставьте его для темно-синих или более светлых костюмов. С черным или темно-серым костюмом хорошо сочетается темный галстук с глубоким пурпуром или вкраплениями темно-красного. Светлые костюмы располагают к темным галстукам, но также могут носиться и с галстуками пастельных тонов при низкоконтрастной внешности мужчины. Ярких и светлых оттенков, таких как желтый, оранжевый, розовый и красный, следует избегать.
Блейзеры и спортивные пиджаки
Подобно классическим костюмам, блейзеры требуют галстука и обычно сочетаются с клубными или полосатыми галстуками. Спортивные пиджаки более неформальны и, в зависимости от типа и тона ткани, могут быть дополнены галстуками с шерстяной текстурой, либо же шелковыми шейными платками. В любом случае, стоит придерживаться всех вышеперечисленных принципов сочетаемости.
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