Британцы любят строгие костюмы и твид, французы береты и багеты, а немцы питают склонность к мешковатым джинсам с туристическими ботинками. Каждый народ имеет среди своих подданных карикатурных персонажей, которые отвечают за все навязанные стереотипы и клише. И лишь когда речь заходит об итальянцах, модные критики замолкают в тихом восхищении. Свое чувство стиля итальянские мужчины лелеяли годами и сегодня сделали интернациональным достоянием. Эти 10 уроков правильного подбора одежды работают и в более северных странах.
Небрежная беспечность
Важное итальянское слово Sprezzatura не имеет дословного перевода и означает что-то вроде «излучения беспечности». С точки зрения стиля такой подход означает, будто бы вы оделись безо всякого умысла, надев на себя все, что попалось под руку. Никому не обязательно знать, что вы потратили четыре часа перед зеркалом, решая какая длина брюк идеально отразит степень вашей беспечности.
Хорошо выглядеть в жилете
Итальянцы — мастера в сочетании несочетаемого и даже пуховые жилеты, которые однозначно относятся к outdoor-гардеробу они успешно вписывают в компанию к белой рубашке и брюкам-чино. Совсем не грешно надеть такой жилет в качестве дополнительного слоя между рубашкой и пиджаком — это выглядит вполне уместно, что доказывают многочисленные модники с флорентийского фестиваля моды Pitti Uomo.
Никогда не снимать очки
Носить очки в темное время суток — отнюдь не моветон, а вполне приличное дело. Но только в том случае, если очки выглядят как часть вашего лица. Подбирать пару нужно исходя их особенностей формы лица.
Покупать дорогую и качественную одежду
Ни одна страна не может похвастаться более высокой долей хорошо одетых мужчин. Итальянцы производят лучшую мужскую одежду в мире и сами же ее с удовольствием покупают. Вложить деньги в хорошую одежду — значит сделать шаг на новый уровень, в котором ваш внешний вид говорит о вас только хорошее.
Текстура важна
Еще одна вещь, на которую обращают внимание итальянские мужчины при выборе одежды — текстура ткани. Мягкая хлопковая рубашка с кашемировым пиджаком сочетаются чуть более чем идеально. Сочетание текстур ткани является ключом к идеальному облику и важно помнить об этом, собирая гардероб.
Сдержанная яркость
Только итальянцам удается носить самые кричащие оттенки в одежде, при этом сохраняя абсолютную маскулинность. Ключ успеха в том, чтобы выбирать мягкие, размытые оттенки. Бледно-розовая рубашка и мягкий синий пиджак могут радовать своей яркой сдержанностью, в то время как салатовые штаны лучше оставить менее успешным модникам.
Пышная прическа
Итальянские мужчины, как правило, обладают пышными шевелюрами и редко носят короткие прически. Однако, даже если вам случилось облысеть — это совсем не повод сдавать позиции, ведь остаются еще борода и усы, которые могут нивелировать недостаток волос на черепе.
Свободный крой
Главная разница между британским и итальянским подходом к одежде заключается в более свободной посадке у последних. Все именитые итальянские портные вроде Giorgio Armani и Ermenegildo Zegna шьют одежду с расслабленным силуэтом, в которой одинаково комфортно будут себя чувствовать и мужчины со стальным прессом и те, кто успел отрастить живот. В любом случае, итальянцы шьют одежду на каждый день, в которой не нужно чувствовать себя как на приеме у королевы.
Слоистая структура
Все больше деятелей стиля отдают предпочтение слоистому подходу в одежде. Это значит, что при взгляде на себя вы сможете одновременно увидеть всю одежду, которая на вас надета, кроме, пожалуй, нижнего белья. Рубашка, пиджак, пальто — каждый из этих слоев несет в себе определенный смысл, который считывается теми, кто будет оценивать вашу внешность.
Наука поз
Стоит взглянуть на любую стритстайл фотографию, как становится понятно, что мужчины на них знают толк в позировании. Осанка, разворот головы, расставленные ноги — все это позволяет облику стать еще интереснее.
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